Liverpool Walkabout 2011
View across River Mersey
Liverpool. My feelings about this Lancashire town are very much like my photograph of the River Mersey, here; very nice, but a bit threatening. And, before you start, The Suits may change some lines on a map and call it Merseyside, but it’ll always be Lancashire to me!
I have been to Liverpool before. Quite a few times, actually. In fact, it had been my original choice of University, back in the day, but then things changed and I ended up in Hull. OK. So, maybe I made some bad choices, back in the day, but everyone has 20/20 hindsight.
I have been to gigs at The Royal Court, The Empire, and The Philharmonic Hall, but nearly all of my visits into the city have been for specific purposes; drive in, park, go to gig, find car, leave before wheels are nicked, or you get mugged by some Scouse ne’er‐do‐well. Perhaps, just like in Glasgow, my preconceptions had been wrong. Could I possibly be wrong again? No. Unthinkable! The Seas would boil, crops would turn to dust and all of the meaner creatures of the earth would rise up and overthrow the Human Race?!
I have been to Liverpool before. Quite a few times, actually. In fact, it had been my original choice of University, back in the day, but then things changed and I ended up in Hull. OK. So, maybe I made some bad choices, back in the day, but everyone has 20/20 hindsight.
I have been to gigs at The Royal Court, The Empire, and The Philharmonic Hall, but nearly all of my visits into the city have been for specific purposes; drive in, park, go to gig, find car, leave before wheels are nicked, or you get mugged by some Scouse ne’er‐do‐well. Perhaps, just like in Glasgow, my preconceptions had been wrong. Could I possibly be wrong again? No. Unthinkable! The Seas would boil, crops would turn to dust and all of the meaner creatures of the earth would rise up and overthrow the Human Race?!
Lime St
Chris and Hannah
So, when my most‐excellent secondborn girlchild and drummer‐boyfriend decided that, for Christmas, they would treat Ma and Pa Thunder to a day out in Liverpool, I was a little unsettled, to say the least. Whilst I loved the idea of spending the day with them; Liverpool? With my new‐found maturity (What? Where and when did this happen? Ed.) I thought: What the heck? I can always push one of the young uns at any would‐be attacker, and run…
On a pretty reasonable January morning, a Tuesday it was, we hopped a boxcar at Crewe and, forty‐five minutes later, having experienced the delights of the Runcorn Gap and Liverpool South Parkway (for John Lennon Airport) we exited from the main entrance of Lime St. station and stood atop the steps, surveying the magnificence before us. Actually, I phoned secondborn to find out where the blast she was and how long she would flipping‐well be.
By the way, Lime St. was named after the Lime Kilns that used to be found there. Oh, I should also admit now, and apologise for, the fact that, after the day out, I came home and did some research… so this will, of course, be much longer than you would really hope… I did put lots of pictures in though.
On a pretty reasonable January morning, a Tuesday it was, we hopped a boxcar at Crewe and, forty‐five minutes later, having experienced the delights of the Runcorn Gap and Liverpool South Parkway (for John Lennon Airport) we exited from the main entrance of Lime St. station and stood atop the steps, surveying the magnificence before us. Actually, I phoned secondborn to find out where the blast she was and how long she would flipping‐well be.
By the way, Lime St. was named after the Lime Kilns that used to be found there. Oh, I should also admit now, and apologise for, the fact that, after the day out, I came home and did some research… so this will, of course, be much longer than you would really hope… I did put lots of pictures in though.
Monumental Masonry
St George's Hall
From Lime St. station, you can’t help but be impressed at what is in front of you. The sheer size of St. Georges Hall, the Walker Art Gallery, the rather impressive Liverpool Empire and North Western Hotel buildings, do take your breath away. If, as the urban myth goes, Adolf Hitler did spend some time in Liverpool as a starving artist, before getting a job in a Fish ‘n’ Chip shop – or did I just make that last bit up? – it could explain his vision of The Third Reich and his love for monumental architecture.
Adolf Hitler’s half‐brother, Alois, really did live in Liverpool in the early years of the 20th Century, with his Irish wife, Bridget. In the 1970s, Bridget’s memoirs came to light. In these writings she stated that Adolf had, indeed, lived with them between 1912 and 1913. However, it has never been definitively proven that these memoirs are genuine and, since ‘The Hitler Diaries’ were, quite rapidly, proven to be fakes, in the early '80s - "bad forgeries but a great hoax" - the work of Stuttgart forger, Konnie Kujau, there is still much suspicion over Bridget's scribblings.
You just can’t beat a good conspiracy theory, can you?
Adolf Hitler’s half‐brother, Alois, really did live in Liverpool in the early years of the 20th Century, with his Irish wife, Bridget. In the 1970s, Bridget’s memoirs came to light. In these writings she stated that Adolf had, indeed, lived with them between 1912 and 1913. However, it has never been definitively proven that these memoirs are genuine and, since ‘The Hitler Diaries’ were, quite rapidly, proven to be fakes, in the early '80s - "bad forgeries but a great hoax" - the work of Stuttgart forger, Konnie Kujau, there is still much suspicion over Bridget's scribblings.
You just can’t beat a good conspiracy theory, can you?
However, we had more important fish to fry. All of this big‐building‐stuff is one thing, but Liverpool is home to something much more impressive. Something much grander. Something much stranger. Something much yellower. Yes! People, that to which I refer, is (drum roll, please, Maestro) the Superlambanana! I was on safari and determined to track down and photograph this timid, reclusive creature in its natural habitat. It wouldn’t be easy, but I was a man on a mission. I spotted one in the distance, but it was quickly gone. Then, as we headed towards its known habitat, the JMU building on Tithebarn St., I spotted it. I crept closer. I didn’t want to spook it. Yes! There it was! ‘Click’. Eureka! I had my photo and, as it turns out, Superlambanana isn’t as reclusive as ‘they’ would have you believe ;-)
Superlambanana
Superlambanana
Superlambanana is a bright yellow sculpture, weighing almost eight tons and standing at 17 feet tall. It is half lamb (front), half banana (back) and was created by Japanese artist, Taro Chiezo, in 1998. It currently stands in Tithebarn Street, near the Albert Dock. Chiezo himself only ever created a four‐inch model, with four local artists building the actual sculpture. Whereas some sculptures seem to leave locals cold, confused, or just hostile, Superlambanana has become quite a landmark and a bit of a local celebrity. A few years ago it came to light that the sculpture was only on‐loan to the city and there were rumours of it going to Manchester. However, some deal was reached with Chiezo and Superlambanana is going to be in Liverpool for the next eighty years, or so. Give or take an ELE, or two. So, screw you Cottonopolis!
The first question that ever occurred to me when I heard of the big, yellow fellow was: Why? I mean, why half lamb, half banana?! It took me a while but, then, when I was reading up about the history of Liverpool, it suddenly hit me in the face like a 20lb Sledge: the lamb and the banana are both instrumental in the town’s growth. During the Days of Empire, sheep and bananas were big commodities traded through the port. Hey, it could have been worse… The other thing that made Liverpool great was the slave trade. Between 1699 and 1807, Liverpool controlled the Atlantic slave trade route. By the end of the 18th Century, 80% of Britain’s and 40% of The World’s slavery business moved through the Port of Liverpool. Now, that would have been an interesting sculpture…
The first question that ever occurred to me when I heard of the big, yellow fellow was: Why? I mean, why half lamb, half banana?! It took me a while but, then, when I was reading up about the history of Liverpool, it suddenly hit me in the face like a 20lb Sledge: the lamb and the banana are both instrumental in the town’s growth. During the Days of Empire, sheep and bananas were big commodities traded through the port. Hey, it could have been worse… The other thing that made Liverpool great was the slave trade. Between 1699 and 1807, Liverpool controlled the Atlantic slave trade route. By the end of the 18th Century, 80% of Britain’s and 40% of The World’s slavery business moved through the Port of Liverpool. Now, that would have been an interesting sculpture…
Etymology
Incidentally, for anyone interested, the name ‘Liverpool’, most likely, means either:
As much as I would love to think that the place was named for those slippery, little blighters thrashing around in the water, whilst I can’t rule it out completely, I can’t quite see it. The most likely explanation is down to the tidal nature of the Mersey Estuary. It does look quite muddy, it is a creek, and it does lead into the Bay of Liverpool, the Irish Sea, and is, ultimately, is the gateway to the Atlantic Ocean. So, Liverpool, means big, dirty ol’ river, what leads to the big water and the edge of the World. There. Sorted!
Where was I? The safari was over, or so I thought. Superlambanana had been located, photographed, and left to go about his business. Our next planned stop was on the waterfront. We made our way towards the docks, as so many Liver Birds have done on any given Saturday night, hopped up on Tia Maria and Coke, Sorry, a leopard can’t change its stripes, you know. I’m a sarcastic, vituperative, little sod and I just can’t resist taking a cheap shot…
- 'Liuerpul', possibly meaning a pool or creek with muddy water
- 'elverpool', a reference to the large number of eels in the Mersey
- ‘Llif’ meaning a flood, often used as the proper name for the Atlantic Ocean, ‘Pwll’ meaning variously, a pool, an inlet or a pit.
As much as I would love to think that the place was named for those slippery, little blighters thrashing around in the water, whilst I can’t rule it out completely, I can’t quite see it. The most likely explanation is down to the tidal nature of the Mersey Estuary. It does look quite muddy, it is a creek, and it does lead into the Bay of Liverpool, the Irish Sea, and is, ultimately, is the gateway to the Atlantic Ocean. So, Liverpool, means big, dirty ol’ river, what leads to the big water and the edge of the World. There. Sorted!
Where was I? The safari was over, or so I thought. Superlambanana had been located, photographed, and left to go about his business. Our next planned stop was on the waterfront. We made our way towards the docks, as so many Liver Birds have done on any given Saturday night, hopped up on Tia Maria and Coke, Sorry, a leopard can’t change its stripes, you know. I’m a sarcastic, vituperative, little sod and I just can’t resist taking a cheap shot…
Exchange Station
Liverpool Exchange station building
Just a short walk along Tithebarn St. brought us to the former Liverpool Exchange station. Opened in May 1850, as Tithebarn St. station, Liverpool Exchange boasted ten platforms and handled trains to Preston and Blackpool, The Lake District, Glasgow, all points to Manchester, Leeds, and Bradford. When long‐distance services were moved to operate out of Lime St. in the 1960s, Exchange station’s days were numbered. With only uneconomical short- or, medium‐distance services left, four platforms were removed to facilitate digging of the Merseyrail tunnel directly below the station, in the 1970s. Electrification and diversions for the new underground system led to the station buildings being sold, in 1977. Developers left the imposing façade in‐tact, but demolished most of the station behind. Today, it still looks stunning and is well worth a walk‐by, at the very least. Incidentally, the last scheduled passenger train service to be hauled by a steam locomotive ended its journey at Liverpool Exchange in August 1968: the Preston to Liverpool section of the Glasgow to Manchester/Liverpool evening service, in case you were wondering.
Docks
Liver Building
Liverpool Docks is, probably, not what you are expecting. It certainly wasn’t what I thought it would be. That is really part of Liverpool’s problem. You see, Liverpool’s dock system is one of the biggest in the world and employed thousands in its heyday. Yet, there is no industry here, no manufacturing, not any more. Containerisation destroyed the need for large docks like Liverpool during the 1970s. Trans‐Atlantic liners stopped sailing out of here in 1973. It is a familiar scene at similar ports across the planet: Glasgow, Baltimore, London, Hamburg, to name a few. Some adapted more quickly than others to the changes they faced.
The thing about Liverpool Docks is that, like the holy trinity of Lime St, station, St Georges Hall, and the Walker Art Gallery, it follows the rule of three. In writing, for example, three funny things happening will be more funny than just one. In photography, the rule of thirds is based on the fact that having three objects in the frame will make a more interesting picture than a single object. Therefore, having three huge buildings on your dock means that it will look much more impressive to everyone, than just the solo, huge building.
The thing about Liverpool Docks is that, like the holy trinity of Lime St, station, St Georges Hall, and the Walker Art Gallery, it follows the rule of three. In writing, for example, three funny things happening will be more funny than just one. In photography, the rule of thirds is based on the fact that having three objects in the frame will make a more interesting picture than a single object. Therefore, having three huge buildings on your dock means that it will look much more impressive to everyone, than just the solo, huge building.
On the site of the, former, George’s Dock, we find:
I could go on for ages about these buildings, but I can sense the groans.
Since the beginning of the 21st Century, they have been collectively known as ‘The Three Graces’ of the Liverpool Pier Head, and that is a fine appellation. They do exude a sense of shock and awe but, also, dignity, majesty, wealth and power.
- Royal Liver Building, built between 1908 and 1911, consisting of two clock towers, each crowned by mythical Liver Birds. The building is the headquarters of the Royal Liver Friendly Society.
- Cunard Building, constructed between 1914 and 1916, former headquarters of the Cunard Line shipping company.
- Port of Liverpool Building, built between 1903 to 1907.
I could go on for ages about these buildings, but I can sense the groans.
Since the beginning of the 21st Century, they have been collectively known as ‘The Three Graces’ of the Liverpool Pier Head, and that is a fine appellation. They do exude a sense of shock and awe but, also, dignity, majesty, wealth and power.
Liver Birds
On top of The Liver Building are the fabled ‘Liver Birds’.
It is considered, by most, that these are a pair of male and female birds, Cormorants, to be precise, as these were once a common sight in these parts. Folklore has it that if the birds should ever fly away, the city would cease to exist. It is for this reason that the birds face away from each other because, if they saw each other and mated, they would fly away and the city would be laid waste. More locally, they contend that if an honest man, or a female virgin walks past, the birds will flap their wings. So, we’re still waiting for that to happen…
One other thing about The Liver Building. The face of the clock is larger than that of the one on St Stephen’s Tower (Big Ben), at the Palace of Westminster. I could be wrong, but I don’t think that was an accident!
It is considered, by most, that these are a pair of male and female birds, Cormorants, to be precise, as these were once a common sight in these parts. Folklore has it that if the birds should ever fly away, the city would cease to exist. It is for this reason that the birds face away from each other because, if they saw each other and mated, they would fly away and the city would be laid waste. More locally, they contend that if an honest man, or a female virgin walks past, the birds will flap their wings. So, we’re still waiting for that to happen…
One other thing about The Liver Building. The face of the clock is larger than that of the one on St Stephen’s Tower (Big Ben), at the Palace of Westminster. I could be wrong, but I don’t think that was an accident!
A Lorra, Lorra Deco
George's Dock Ventilation Building
Also on the site is the George’s Dock Ventilation Building. This stunning Art Deco edifice was built in the 1930’s and contains offices and ventilator equipment for the Queensway (Birkenhead) Tunnel beneath.
According to my research, there is a near‐identical structure on North John St that services the Kingsway (Wallasey) Tunnel.
According to my research, there is a near‐identical structure on North John St that services the Kingsway (Wallasey) Tunnel.
Docks (Again)
Liverpool Docks
Walking along by the River Mersey, towards Albert Dock, you can’t help but notice just how much space there is here. It reminds me of the waterfront in Copenhagen where the modern Customs House and Opera House stand out distinctly against the much older buildings around them. Next time I’m here I must get a ferry across the river and take a pic from the other side, like in New York, where you can pop over to New Jersey for a good Manhattan snap.
Beatles
Guess!
Our next stop in the city was something to do with some old pop group that, apparently, once played in a basement somewhere in a dodgy part of town. Yeah, you all know I mean the Beatles and The Cavern Club, don’t you? Being a person familiar with the live music environment, I was not in the least surprised to find that The Cavern Club is, indeed, in a side street and, is the sort of place you would hurry past, were it not for the fact that you might be going to see a band there. Then again, some of the best venues I’ve been to could be described as ‘holes in the ground’.
I have never really been a Beatles fan. I realise that in Liverpool this is sacrilegious, but I really am just not keen on their particular brand of the stuff. I appreciate their contribution to music and all that but, then again, I never liked that Beatles tribute band, Oasis, either. Coming to Liverpool, I expected everything to be ‘All Beatles, All the time!’ If you see anything on the TV, it is Liverpool this, Beatles that; the two are synonymous. Imagine my surprise to find that, whilst The Fab Four are, rightly, much revered in their home town, the tributes are actually quite low‐key and, unexpectedly tasteful. One last Beatle‐related item, before we get all religious. Liverpool airport is now known as John Lennon airport. McCartney, who I have never had any time for, has contributed an extra 30 years worth of music to the world, yet they name the airport after the dead one. Being deceased doesn’t make you more talented, it just makes you unable to record crap records that may affect your popularity.
Oh, I’m gonna get hate mail over that one.
I have never really been a Beatles fan. I realise that in Liverpool this is sacrilegious, but I really am just not keen on their particular brand of the stuff. I appreciate their contribution to music and all that but, then again, I never liked that Beatles tribute band, Oasis, either. Coming to Liverpool, I expected everything to be ‘All Beatles, All the time!’ If you see anything on the TV, it is Liverpool this, Beatles that; the two are synonymous. Imagine my surprise to find that, whilst The Fab Four are, rightly, much revered in their home town, the tributes are actually quite low‐key and, unexpectedly tasteful. One last Beatle‐related item, before we get all religious. Liverpool airport is now known as John Lennon airport. McCartney, who I have never had any time for, has contributed an extra 30 years worth of music to the world, yet they name the airport after the dead one. Being deceased doesn’t make you more talented, it just makes you unable to record crap records that may affect your popularity.
Oh, I’m gonna get hate mail over that one.
Liverpool One
Liverpool One
Passing through the centre of Liverpool One, you can’t but wonder who they built all these nice, expensive shops for. It is all very stylish and classy but who shops here? Locals? I didn’t have Liverpool down as having shitloads of really wealthy people. I could be wrong.
Moving on, let’s see if I can’t offend some God‐botherers too.
Moving on, let’s see if I can’t offend some God‐botherers too.
Orienteering
St Luke's - 'The bombed-out church'
Our next tour‐stop required some mountain‐climbing. You would think that being at sea‐level, the place would be relatively flat, but it ain’t. In fact, it is distinctly un‐flat! To reach the mighty Anglican Cathedral you have to yomp to the top of St. James’ Mount.
On the way you have to pass by ‘the bombed‐out church’. A local landmark, St Luke’s Church was hit with an incendiary bomb on May 5th 1941. It has stood as a memorial ever since.
On the way you have to pass by ‘the bombed‐out church’. A local landmark, St Luke’s Church was hit with an incendiary bomb on May 5th 1941. It has stood as a memorial ever since.
Anglican Cathedral
The Cathedral Church of Christ in Liverpool, or ‘The Anglican’ to you and me, is a colossal structure 620 ft (189 m) long, and is the longest church building used as a cathedral, in the world. It was built on a hill, at one end of Hope St, overlooking the city. It is a monster. The other cathedral in Liverpool, the Metropolitan, stands at the other end of Hope St. Although it is a nice idea that Hope St. has a big ol’ church at either end, it was named long before the Anglican was built, after a local Merchant, William Hope, who lived in a house where the Philharmonic Hall now stands.
I have been in some big churchified buildings over the years, but this is just huge. The internal length of the building is 479ft (146m) and is breathtaking. When plans were made to build a cathedral in Liverpool, it was to be only the third chance for The Church to build a new Godshack, since The Reformation, St Paul’s being the first after the Great Fire of London in 1666, and Truro in the 19th century. So, they decided to hold a competition to find a winning design. Charles Rennie Mackintosh and Charles Herbert Reilly (whose credits include the cottages at Port Sunlight and Accrington War Memorial) were amongst the 100, or so, entries.
I have been in some big churchified buildings over the years, but this is just huge. The internal length of the building is 479ft (146m) and is breathtaking. When plans were made to build a cathedral in Liverpool, it was to be only the third chance for The Church to build a new Godshack, since The Reformation, St Paul’s being the first after the Great Fire of London in 1666, and Truro in the 19th century. So, they decided to hold a competition to find a winning design. Charles Rennie Mackintosh and Charles Herbert Reilly (whose credits include the cottages at Port Sunlight and Accrington War Memorial) were amongst the 100, or so, entries.
Sir Giles Gilbert Scott
A K6 Telephone Kiosk
Yet, it was the proposal of an inexperienced architect, 22 year old, Giles Gilbert Scott, that was selected. It didn’t seem to matter that Scott had no other building credits, or that he was Roman Catholic.
Scott would also go on to design Battersea Power Station and, the ubiquitous, red, K‐series Telephone Kiosk, which became as much of a symbol of Britain as Fish ‘n’ Chips, when the K6 appeared from 1935, onwards.
Scott would also go on to design Battersea Power Station and, the ubiquitous, red, K‐series Telephone Kiosk, which became as much of a symbol of Britain as Fish ‘n’ Chips, when the K6 appeared from 1935, onwards.
Construction
Construction on Scott’s design of Liverpool Cathedral began in 1903. The original design had two towers, but around 1910, he became unhappy with the way it was shaping up and re‐designed the plans to simplify the layout, to the single massive central tower we see today, even incorporating some of Mackintosh’s competition entry ideas into his new designs. Construction continued slowly during WWI, and WWII, plagued by lack of materials and manpower, costs and, inflation. Although it was consecrated in 1924, once the altar was completed, the tower wasn’t finished until 1942, the first bay of the Nave until 1961 (after Scott’s death), with completion finally coming in 1978.
Big Holy
Liverpool Cathedral is not just the biggest Cathedral in the world. (St Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City is, technically, larger, but it’s not your everyday church, is it?) Its footprint is 104,270 sq ft (9,687 sq m) and was built, mainly, of locally‐quarried sandstone. The belltower is the largest, and also one of the tallest in the world, rising to a vertigo‐inducing 331 ft (100.8 m) and, at 219 ft (67 m), it houses the highest and heaviest (31 tons) ringing peal of bells in the world. It also has the largest Pipe Organ in the UK.
Before we head off and see the competition at the other end of the road, mention also needs to be made of the stained glass windows, which are incredible and, large.
Before we head off and see the competition at the other end of the road, mention also needs to be made of the stained glass windows, which are incredible and, large.
St James Mount
Leaving The Anglican, there is a curious place right beside it.
St James Mount is currently the site of a public park but, in the past, it was originally a quarry, then was used as a cemetery, before being turned into a public park. The building you can see is The Oratory, which was originally built to house funeral services and other functions, but now contains some of the statuary recovered when the graves were disinterred. It is usually locked, apparently. Surprisingly, It has nothing at all to do with the cathedral, next door.
St James Mount is currently the site of a public park but, in the past, it was originally a quarry, then was used as a cemetery, before being turned into a public park. The building you can see is The Oratory, which was originally built to house funeral services and other functions, but now contains some of the statuary recovered when the graves were disinterred. It is usually locked, apparently. Surprisingly, It has nothing at all to do with the cathedral, next door.
Hope St
Perambulating along Hope St. you encounter, two things of note. One is what looks like, a whole bunch of luggage in the middle of the pavement. In fact, it is a sculpture of concrete castings of various items of luggage of Liverpool celebrities, including The Beatles. It is called ‘Liverpool: A Case History’. I rather liked it.
The other thing is a bit bigger; The Philharmonic Hall. Which, for some reason, I didn't take a picture of! Someone, slap me! I will rectify that omission, next time...
The other thing is a bit bigger; The Philharmonic Hall. Which, for some reason, I didn't take a picture of! Someone, slap me! I will rectify that omission, next time...
The Philharmonic Hall
Not the Philharmonic Hall
The Philharmonic Hall is the second concert hall on this site. The first burned to the ground in 1933, the current building dating from 1939. This magnificent Streamline Moderne masterpiece is simply one of the most stunning examples of its kind that I have ever seen. Following a refurbishment in the mid 1990s, the interior is quite one of the most beautiful things this side of The Chrysler Building.
It was designed by Herbert John Rowse who also designed India Building on Water St., and the Queensway Tunnel (including that marvellous Ventilation Building on George’s Dock. Remember?). Back in 1939, the final cost of the building was around £120,000. You can’t even buy a parking space in some places for that kind of money nowadays.
It was designed by Herbert John Rowse who also designed India Building on Water St., and the Queensway Tunnel (including that marvellous Ventilation Building on George’s Dock. Remember?). Back in 1939, the final cost of the building was around £120,000. You can’t even buy a parking space in some places for that kind of money nowadays.
Everyman Theatre
After a rather excellent meal of Chicken and Prawn stir‐fry, cooked by the fair hands of secondborn herself (who has been known to burn water), it was beginning to get a little dusky out. We had to make our way back to Lime St. to catch our train, but not before checking out The Everyman Theatre (which spawned many of our writing and acting greats, including Willy Russell, Julie Walters, and the late, great, Pete Postlethwaite) and The Metropolitan Cathedral of Christ the King, commonly known around these parts as Paddy’s Wigwam, or the Mersey Funnel.
Paddy's Wigwam
The Metropolitan Cathedral is Liverpool’s Roman Catholic cathedral. Constructed from concrete, [originally] faced with mosaic tiles, clad in Portland Stone, with a conical tower and a lead roof, it has always been, and will always be, controversial. Just take a look at it. For a start, it is circular, not conventionally cruciform‐shaped. Designed by Frederick Gibberd, an Englishman, construction began in 1962 and was completed in 1967, less than five years later and, technically, some ten years before the Anglican cathedral, which had been started some seventy years earlier.
Soon after opening, however, the building began to exhibit some serious architectural (and construction) flaws, including leaking from the roof, and the mosaic tiles coming away from the concrete. Gibberd was sued for £1.3M. In the 1990s, work was carried out to effect repairs, and a major renovation was completed in the 2000s, including, in 2003, the, now famous, steps, which I foolishly decided to run up.
Soon after opening, however, the building began to exhibit some serious architectural (and construction) flaws, including leaking from the roof, and the mosaic tiles coming away from the concrete. Gibberd was sued for £1.3M. In the 1990s, work was carried out to effect repairs, and a major renovation was completed in the 2000s, including, in 2003, the, now famous, steps, which I foolishly decided to run up.
Frederick Gibberd
Whilst it is easy to criticise Gibberd’s unusual design, you can’t deny that it is different. Interestingly, the previous attempt at building a cathedral on this site, Edwin Lutyen’s immense design, construction of which began before WWII, but was cancelled due to expense, is incorporated into the modern‐day Metropolitan cathedral. The crypt was the only part of the earlier design that was actually completed and Gibberd’s circular design was required to incorporate this.
Whatever your feelings about it may be, The Metropolitan is memorable and does look very impressive at night. The interior is just as unusual as the exterior and would, I am sure, make a great venue for rock bands. Is that blasphemous? Well, I’m not RC, and as an agnostic, I seek proof of God’s existence, so I guess being struck down by a bolt of lightning would tick a couple of boxes…
Whatever your feelings about it may be, The Metropolitan is memorable and does look very impressive at night. The interior is just as unusual as the exterior and would, I am sure, make a great venue for rock bands. Is that blasphemous? Well, I’m not RC, and as an agnostic, I seek proof of God’s existence, so I guess being struck down by a bolt of lightning would tick a couple of boxes…
As our walking tour had been a daylight affair, I hadn’t considered how different things might look at night. Evening rapidly fell whilst we were inside The Metropolitan and, by the time we got back to Lime St. everything was fully illuminated. It all looked even more impressive at night. I may have to come back and do a little night photography…
I have to admit that Liverpool, it is a fine city. It has always sought to prove that it is as good as anywhere else, and still continues to do so. Whether, or not, it actually has anything to prove, I’m not sure, but I do understand. In spite of my many years of slagging the city off, I have to admit, I was wrong. It’s a bloody fantastic place and I can only regret not having realised it sooner. Maybe I should look at moving here!? ‘I can do that. Go on. Gis a job!
Many thanks to Hannah and Chris for a Grand Day Out in Liverpool.
Mark L. Potts
The God of Thunder
27th January 2011
I have to admit that Liverpool, it is a fine city. It has always sought to prove that it is as good as anywhere else, and still continues to do so. Whether, or not, it actually has anything to prove, I’m not sure, but I do understand. In spite of my many years of slagging the city off, I have to admit, I was wrong. It’s a bloody fantastic place and I can only regret not having realised it sooner. Maybe I should look at moving here!? ‘I can do that. Go on. Gis a job!
Many thanks to Hannah and Chris for a Grand Day Out in Liverpool.
Mark L. Potts
The God of Thunder
27th January 2011
Just one more thing...
Perhaps, had I gone to university in Liverpool, things would have turned out differently for me. Sure, maybe. Then again, if that means I would not have met my wife, had two beautiful daughters, done some of the weird and wonderful things that I have done, then I would not want that. I could have done without a lot of the crap that has littered my life and still plagues me. I could have stayed in the Civil Service – I would have almost thirty years in by now. I don’t know that I would have been any happier than I am though and I sure as hell don’t think a Civil Servant would have done some of the things that I have done, either. But, that’s not me. My life is far from perfect. Hell, it ain’t even ‘good’, but it is what I have made it and, I can’t undo any of it. Nevertheless, I can rectify some of the mistakes I’ve made. Today, in Liverpool, I lost my prejudice, my stupidity, my preconceptions, for a few hours, and I realised that Liverpool is one of our great cities and Liverpudlians are right to be proud of such a fine example of Great British pride and achievement.
I’d also like to take this opportunity to proffer one further thought, for your consideration, delectation, and rationalisation. Here goes…
Northerners are fiercely proud of their roots. The powerful men built their great stone edifices to show how well they had done in the world, proud that they had come from nowt, and no‐one had helped them, that they had got where they were through sheer, bloody hard graft. That, and the trampling, roughshod over the downtrodden workers they ruled with an iron fist… Of those marvellous buildings many still exist all across Northern England. In spite of the blanket bombing of Liverpool by The Luftwaffe, during WWII, these colossal monuments to Victorian tyrants, er benefactors, remain, standing defiant, proud, almost raising a finger to the south, as if to say: you may not like us and think we’re stupid, but we’re still here, and yes, the clock on The Liver Building is bigger than the one on News at Ten!
St George’s Hall, The Walker Art Gallery, and Lime St. station were all built to be unnecessarily large and imposing for a reason. Situated to form an impressive and imposing aspect to anyone exiting the magnificent main entrance of Lime St. station, St Georges Hall and The Walker Art Gallery are big. It is a surprise, because you are not expecting Liverpool to look quite so dignified and grown up and, well, BIG. Then, as you descend the steps from the station, you turn to look at the stunning front elevation of the station building. It is quite staggeringly beautiful and, easily as impressive as Waterloo. It was all meant to say: Look how well we’re doing, here, in The North: Liverpool, hub of The British Empire. If you want it, it comes through Liverpool!
I think, at the heart of it all, that’s what pisses off The South most of all. They may have the advantage now, but they know full well, that without the great northern cities, the British Empire Days would have been a much smaller affair.
Aside from being home to the oldest Chinese community in Europe, Liverpool can lay claim to a number of 'Firsts':
I’ll bet even you Scousers are surprised! Then again, maybe not. You guys already know it, I just never saw it before.
Mark L. Potts
The God of Thunder
7th February 2011
Perhaps, had I gone to university in Liverpool, things would have turned out differently for me. Sure, maybe. Then again, if that means I would not have met my wife, had two beautiful daughters, done some of the weird and wonderful things that I have done, then I would not want that. I could have done without a lot of the crap that has littered my life and still plagues me. I could have stayed in the Civil Service – I would have almost thirty years in by now. I don’t know that I would have been any happier than I am though and I sure as hell don’t think a Civil Servant would have done some of the things that I have done, either. But, that’s not me. My life is far from perfect. Hell, it ain’t even ‘good’, but it is what I have made it and, I can’t undo any of it. Nevertheless, I can rectify some of the mistakes I’ve made. Today, in Liverpool, I lost my prejudice, my stupidity, my preconceptions, for a few hours, and I realised that Liverpool is one of our great cities and Liverpudlians are right to be proud of such a fine example of Great British pride and achievement.
I’d also like to take this opportunity to proffer one further thought, for your consideration, delectation, and rationalisation. Here goes…
Northerners are fiercely proud of their roots. The powerful men built their great stone edifices to show how well they had done in the world, proud that they had come from nowt, and no‐one had helped them, that they had got where they were through sheer, bloody hard graft. That, and the trampling, roughshod over the downtrodden workers they ruled with an iron fist… Of those marvellous buildings many still exist all across Northern England. In spite of the blanket bombing of Liverpool by The Luftwaffe, during WWII, these colossal monuments to Victorian tyrants, er benefactors, remain, standing defiant, proud, almost raising a finger to the south, as if to say: you may not like us and think we’re stupid, but we’re still here, and yes, the clock on The Liver Building is bigger than the one on News at Ten!
St George’s Hall, The Walker Art Gallery, and Lime St. station were all built to be unnecessarily large and imposing for a reason. Situated to form an impressive and imposing aspect to anyone exiting the magnificent main entrance of Lime St. station, St Georges Hall and The Walker Art Gallery are big. It is a surprise, because you are not expecting Liverpool to look quite so dignified and grown up and, well, BIG. Then, as you descend the steps from the station, you turn to look at the stunning front elevation of the station building. It is quite staggeringly beautiful and, easily as impressive as Waterloo. It was all meant to say: Look how well we’re doing, here, in The North: Liverpool, hub of The British Empire. If you want it, it comes through Liverpool!
I think, at the heart of it all, that’s what pisses off The South most of all. They may have the advantage now, but they know full well, that without the great northern cities, the British Empire Days would have been a much smaller affair.
Aside from being home to the oldest Chinese community in Europe, Liverpool can lay claim to a number of 'Firsts':
- railway in the UK (Liverpool to Manchester)
- School for the
Blind
- High School for Girls
- council house
- Juvenile Court
- lifeboat station
- public baths and wash‐houses
- medical officer
for health
- district nurse
- slum clearance
- purpose‐built
ambulance
- X‐ray medical diagnosis
- school of tropical medicine
- motorised municipal fire‐engine
- free school milk and school
meals
- cancer research centre
- zoonosis research centre.
- The first British Nobel Prize was awarded in 1902 to Ronald Ross, professor at the School of Tropical Medicine, the first school of its kind in the world.
- Orthopaedic surgery was pioneered in Liverpool
by Hugh Owen Thomas, and modern medical anaesthetics by Thomas
Cecil Gray.
- In finance, Liverpool founded the
UK's first Underwriters' Association and the first Institute of
Accountants. The Western world's first financial derivatives (cotton futures)
were traded on the Liverpool Cotton Exchange in the late 1700s.
- In the arts, Liverpool was home
to the first lending library, athenaeum society, arts centre and
public art conservation centre. Liverpool is also home to the UK's oldest
surviving classical orchestra, the Royal Liverpool Philharmonic Orchestra.
- In 1864, Peter Ellis built
the world's first iron‐framed, curtain‐walled office building, Oriel Chambers,
the prototype of the skyscraper.
- Between 1862 and 1867, Liverpool
held an annual Grand Olympic Festival. These games were the first to be
wholly amateur in nature and international in outlook. The programme of
the first modern Olympiad in Athens in 1896 was almost identical to that of the
Liverpool Olympics.
- Shipowner Sir Alfred Lewis
Jones introduced the banana to Great Britain in 1884.
- In 1897, the Lumière brothers
filmed Liverpool, including what is believed to be the world's first
tracking shot, taken from the Liverpool Overhead Railway – the
world's first elevated electrified railway.
- Liverpool inventor Frank
Hornby was a visionary in toy development and manufacture and produced
three of the most popular lines of toys in the 20th century: Meccano, Hornby
Model Railways and Dinky Toys.
I’ll bet even you Scousers are surprised! Then again, maybe not. You guys already know it, I just never saw it before.
Mark L. Potts
The God of Thunder
7th February 2011